Semana Santa

Semana Santa (Holy Week) in the Philippines. The visuals display the traditions and rituals of Catholics in Pampanga Province, Luzon.

Angeles, Pampanga Province — Philippines: The dense tropical air hung heavy, thick with the metallic tang of fresh blood mingling with sweat. Under the scorching 100-degree heat on the streets of Angeles we followed a procession of Catholic penitents. These masked men with exposed backs, now stained in blooms of crimson subject themselves to ritual self-flagellation. Tasseled whips lashed bare skin in reverberating tin sounding hits, trailing arcs of scarlet with each agonizing stroke. Children followed the columns, eyes wide, sweat beading on brows as they held small buckets of water. Periodically the bloodied penitents would dip their flagella into the pails, diluting it before resuming their lacerating rhythm. At the front, men shouldered heavy wooden crosses, leading the groups through the side-streets of Angeles city. With each lurching step, flecks of gore splattered outward, misting the ground, walls, and any bystanders with a ghastly red overspray. We were not spared the errant spatter, and immediately wiped away the warm blood that clung to our exposed skin and camera equipment. The monotone readings of biblical passages and solemn hymns crackle over loudspeakers as the processions snaked onwards to its next temporary altar. Bowing in supplication and prostrate on the ground laying before makeshift neighborhood shrines, the penitents allowed the occasional person to strike them with sticks and slender branches to emulate the suffering of Christ. These groups of cross bearers and flagellators were not an isolated one off event but happening all over the city. Sometimes in large processions of twenty to thirty men and sometimes in groups as small as three. This carried on throughout the week of Semana Santa (Holy Week) until Good Friday.

San Pedro Cutud, Pampanga Province — Good Friday: The crescendo of these events was Good Friday in San Pedro Cutud, where we observed actual crucifixion reenactments and an elaborate passion play depicting Christ’s final hours. This annual event draws large crowds, numbering in the tens of thousands. The heat was oppressive as we awaited the start of the production. After hours of waiting we eventually saw horsemen dressed in red Roman garments galloping up the dirt ramp to what would be Golgotha. The horsemen, followed by actors portraying Roman soldiers, violently escorted Jesus towards the cross. The portrayal felt remarkably authentic, with Ruben Enaje, 63, reprising his role as Jesus for the 35th time. The actors portraying Roman soldiers added to the realism by throwing Jesus to the ground adorning him with a crown of thorns and manhandling the women in the scene as they wept. Medical staff were on standby as Ruben (Jesus) was actually nailed to the cross. An unexpected storm added to the drama as the crucifixion scene played out under darkened skies. After 15 minutes, the actor Ruben was then taken down, amidst a full storm and strong winds. They proceeded to crucify more actors one by one without the pomp of another production. Each additional crucifixion lasted around 10 minutes and at the ending of the final man the skies opened up and a torrential rainstorm poured down. Everyone quickly sought cover and as we sheltered with a group of observers they said, “We’ve never seen it with a storm like that.”

Traditions: While the zeal of these devotees is unquestionable, we must reflect on their motivations. The practices of self-flagellation and crucifixion undertaken by some in Pampanga are seen as acts of penance, seeking forgiveness for transgressions and identifying with Christ’s suffering. However, this stands in contrast to Biblical teachings, for Jesus suffered so that we might not have to. He laid down His life to save ours, with His body broken for our healing and His blood shed for the forgiveness of our sins. No human effort can accomplish what Jesus achieved for us through His sacrifice. It is through His blood alone that true forgiveness is obtained. Often, in many places, traditions and rituals take precedence over genuine faith. Jesus Himself warned against prioritizing religious customs and outward displays of piety over authentic, spirit-led worship of God. As He said, “But an hour is coming, and now is, when the true worshipers shall worship the Father in spirit and truth; for such people the Father seeks to be His worshipers. “God is spirit, and those who worship Him must worship in spirit and truth.” The woman said to Him, “I know that Messiah is coming (He who is called Christ); when that One comes, He will declare all things to us.” Jesus said to her, “I who speak to you am He.” — John 4:23–25. External rituals, no matter how dramatic, sincere or sacrificial, do not constitute true worship. As a note, before one is quick to condemn others, a person should examine their potential blindspots. How often do we in the modern church slip into mere formulas of tradition — 
announcements, music, sermon, dismissal — without cultivating a genuine spirit of worship? It doesn’t mean that all traditions are bad, but when traditions become the main part of a church’s interaction with God people lack a move of the Holy Spirit.

Risen: The true core of our faith is that Jesus is risen and He will return. This is the message we tell the world. In Him there is the forgiveness of sins and everlasting life to those who believe. “Jesus said to her, ‘I am the resurrection and the life; he who believes in Me shall live even if he dies, and everyone who lives and believes in Me shall never die. Do you believe this?’” — John 11:25–26 “Blessed be the God and Father of our Lord Jesus Christ, who according to His great mercy has caused us to be born again to a living hope through the resurrection of Jesus Christ from the dead.” — 1 Peter 1:3 “For since by a man came death, by a man also came the resurrection of the dead.” — 1 Corinthians 15:21.

In Him,
Tim and Will